Drifting off
with Anthony O'Hern

To become one with Tasmania’s winter wilds, all you need is a mountain, a kayak and a plucky disregard for cold weather.

Anthony O’Hern has called Cradle Mountain's primeval and magnificent landscapes home for more than 20 years.

“It’s the most beautiful place in the world, I reckon,” he says. “I’ve been here, I don’t know, hundreds, maybe thousands of times. But every time I’m really amazed by the beauty of the place.”

Following several years as a bushwalking guide, O’Hern co-created Cradle Mountain Canyons, leading guests on exhilarating alpine canyoning expeditions. In the Off Season, when the fast-flowing streams are too wild to traverse, O’Hern offers a more meditative alpine spectacle with his Dove Lake Kayak tours.

O’Hern’s days are spent embracing elemental unpredictability, from rainclouds rolling in over Cradle Mountain's distinctive peak to those still winter mornings “where it's like glass out on the lake … and there's snow on the mountain”.

Drifting through the highlands

Dove Lake Kayak’s three-hour Off Season offer, A morning adrift, is as atmospheric as it sounds. Glide along this expansive tarn’s calm, cool surface in a tandem kayak, stepping onto a pebbled shore for a stroll with O’Hern through a spellbinding rainforest, hot cuppa in hand.

Your senses are heightened when you’re doing that sort of stuff, when you’re outside of your comfort zone.

From gum trees to banksias and tea trees, O’Hern says the mountainous terrain hosts flora and geological phenomena seen across Australia, New Zealand and Patagonia – regions once connected to now isolated Tasmania.

“It’s a landscape that’s been carved by glaciers,” O’Hern says. “There are rocks that look like they’ve had a giant run their fingernails through them because that’s from the glacier passing over the top of them and scraping them.”

During the tour, encounter one of the largest existing stands of ancient King Billy pine. Some of these contorted conifer trees are 2000 years old, possessing the very timber O’Hern carefully shaped to handcraft his King Billy kayaks.

This protected pine grows only in Tasmania.

“We're not allowed to cut it down and you haven't been allowed to for a long time,” O’Hern says. “It's a really special material and we wanted to be really sure we did it justice.”

Cradle Mountain is also one of the best places to see snow in Tasmania.

The natural north west

Surrounding Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, dip into a wonderland of bewitching wildlife and enchanting wilderness.

“The Off Season’s special up here,” O’Hern says. “Sometimes you’ve got a heap of snow which you don’t tend to get in summer ... you get the wombats wandering through the snow.”

Whether hiking or kayaking, O’Hern has crafted a clever mantra for embracing the elements.

“I just say, ‘I’m cold, but I don’t care’,” he says. When you get here, give it a try.

Looking to fill your Off Season with Tasmanian winter outdoor adventures? The island’s north-west region sets the scene for more environmental immersion this Off Season.

Go deeper into the winter wilds, where only a boat can roam, with Leven River Cruises. Bring your woolly attire, and perhaps a camera or some fishing gear if you’d like to make friends with the birds (or make dinner with the fish). Melt-in-your mouth food and drink will keep you company on the cruise – from hot chocolate to warm muffins and Tasmanian cheeses. Or take a brisk morning walk through dew-dropped fields at Paradise Road Farm with friendly goats by your side.

And if you’re a winter person, like O’Hern, the joy of all this exploring through the rugged north-west wilderness is made sweeter by what comes after the adventure…

Lay your head in the Cradle

In the Off Season, Tasmania’s accommodation feels that much cosier.

“My favourite experiences in the Off Season usually involve going out and doing something in the outdoors, getting kind of cold, usually on a river or a lake, and then going back home and getting warm,” O’Hern says.

It’s a good way to feel like your life is luxurious, if you get out in the elements.

O’Hern relishes a roaring fire and hearty fare at Cradle Mountain Hotel after a wild expedition. Their Off Season package combines the accommodation with a dining voucher, parks passes, lunch packs and wine – all you could need for a rugged retreat.

Spy wildlife pottering on the powdery snow, hike the 3hr, 6km Dove Lake circuit (perhaps glimpsing O’Hern on the lake) and defrost after the fun with a premium local wine, complimentary to enjoy by the fire.

And make sure you save room for dessert with the devil in a decadent after-dark experience, where cheeky Tasmanian devils keep you company by the fire at Devils @ Cradle. It’s wise to keep your distance from these unique creatures in the wild, but the wildlife park’s expert handlers can give you a close-up experience.

Further afield in north-west Tasmania, it doesn’t get much more romantic than glamping in nature with Gleneagle Tasmania, toasting marshmallows over a glowing fire and steaming up the crisp forest air in a clawfoot bath.

Stay at Ship Inn Stanley under the arc of an ancient volcanic plug, spending your evenings watching little penguins parade ashore and sipping muscat. Also in Stanley, uncover the secrets of the cellar at Poet’s Cottage with a chef-prepared, home-cooked dinner and an expertly curated wine list.

Whether braving the cold or relishing the warmth, be warned: if you’re anything like O’Hern, one encounter with Tasmania’s breathtaking Off Season wilderness won’t be enough.

Frequently asked questions

What is the coldest month in Tasmania?

During the winter months of June, July and August, the temperature in Tasmania ranges from an average minimum of 5°C to an average maximum of 12°C. July is the coldest month in Tasmania. While Launceston produces hotter average maximum temperatures in summer (25°C) than Hobart (22°C), the northern town also achieves chillier average overnight minimums (2°C) than Tasmania’s capital (5°C) in winter. Find out what to pack for winter and seek inspiration from more local Off Season experts.

How far is Cradle Mountain from Hobart?

One of Tasmania’s most cherished natural landmarks, Cradle Mountain soars 1545m above sea level. The drive from Hobart to Cradle Mountain covers 300km and takes about 4hrs to navigate. The journey north west from Hobart brings you through lush green countryside, rocky plateaus and fern-flanked passes. The drive is even shorter from Launceston, meandering 140km west of the city for 1hr 45min. From rustic cabins to lavish spa suites, browse accommodation near Cradle Mountain.

Where can I go kayaking in Tasmania?

Whether you’re seeking a solo expedition or a group kayak tour, Tasmania has a plethora of options – many of them featuring jaw dropping backdrops. Pick a coastline, any coastline: from wondrous sea cliffs at Turrakana / Tasman Peninsula to vibrant turquoise bays on the Freycinet Peninsula and the far-flung wilds of south-west Tasmania. Don’t forget the many mirrored waterways further inland, from Pieman River to Dove Lake. Even the major cities offer scenic paddling tours. Check out the best kayaking in Tasmania and explore the Off Season’s top offers for nature, wildlife and adventure lovers.